It’s no big news when you hear about people going to Cambodia for the sole reason of seeing their temples, specifically the Angkor Wat. There’s nothing wrong with that, because these temples are definitely something you need to go out of your way for, and trust me, there’s nothing like it. But with the way I travel, I have a certain desire to explore more than what I came for. And that’s exactly what led me to Phnom Kulen.
My time in Cambodia was sweet, peaceful, and spiritual, to say the least. Going there alone was the best idea, because the experience was even more sublime for me. However, it didn’t really begin that way. Parting ways with my husband in Bangkok as he flies back to Manila and I headed for Siem Reap two days later, it wasn’t particularly easy being on my own. The trip from Bangkok to Siem Reap was already daunting, and I guess it’s safe to say that my first day in Cambodia felt a little empty to me. (READ: Crossing Borders: How To Go From Bangkok To Siem Reap via bus)
But I knew what I signed up for, and I expected the loneliness to creep in as soon as it did. However, I’ve done this before and the feeling was already too familiar, that I wasn’t going to waste a day moping around in my hostel. Because, really, who does that? So instead, I walked around the streets of Siem Reap scavenging for a good deal for the waterfalls. I’ve read up on it prior to my trip and I knew I wanted to add it in my itinerary. Somehow, I still ended up booking with my hostel (The Luxury Concept Hostel), which cost me $30. A little pricey for a tour in Southeast Asia, but I’m pretty certain this is the standard price for this specific one. If you’re with a big group, I suppose you’re better off renting a van for the day.
It was a good call to go there instead of dedicating my first full day exploring the temples. Since I was feeling a bit lonesome and melancholic, I figured nature will snap me out of it. Exploring the temples can also be very exhausting, especially if you squeeze it all in one day, so coming from a long bus trip the day before, it was a wise decision. The tour worked out wonderfully for me since there were only me and a Dutch girl who’s an expat in Bangkok. I’m really not a fan of group tours at all, but sometimes, they’re just more convenient.
We headed out for the mountains at 7 in the morning, and we reached our first destination before 9. The winding dirt roads up the mountains is a bit strenuous and although many people choose to go by motorbikes, I was glad to be in a vehicle to avoid the dust. Our first stop was the river of the 1000 Lingas. Along the river banks are a thousand carvings of lingas, a phallic shape symbol for Hindus that are believed to be holy. It is believed to purify the water, making it fertile before it reaches the rice fields. We came across a small spring, also considered holy. Although the sand at the bottom looks like a shade of light brown or white, it somehow turns into a redder shade once taken out of the spring itself. It was said that once upon a time, the king was the only one allowed to bathe in it.
We then proceeded to our next stop which was a buddhist temple called Wat Preah Ang Tohm. Dating back to 16th century before Buddhist has taken over, the temple is quite famous for the locals. It houses a reclining buddha inside, and there are a bunch of beautiful carvings around the surroundings outside as well.
From there, we took a short hike to the waterfalls, which is mainly what I came to Phnom Kulen for. I wasn’t quite aware of those two previous spots we went to, but I was most definitely glad to have seen it. It never hurts to learn a few more things and to see a couple more sites. It’s those little surprises that I love about traveling.
The hike, which was more like a walk, took us along the locals’ homes in the mountain. We passed by some vendors selling pretty bizarre stuff– from goat fat, to tiger teeth, to bear claws, and everything in between, it was… fascinating, to say the least. Once we reached the waterfalls, there were some people already. There’s about an equal proportion of locals and tourists, I would say.
The water was brown, as the rest of Cambodia is. Seriously, Cambodia is so brown. I think this is Cambodia’s charm– it’s rustic authenticity is humble and completely different from the evolving cities most of us all hail from. Anyway, the water was cold in that February morning, but it was still refreshing to take a dip in the water. There were a lot of those dead-skin eater fish, and some are pretty huge, so don’t be alarmed! They’re not harmful, and those are the kind of fish they actually use for fish spa, but they do feel funny. I also got to hang out with some locals, and my guide was also cool enough to join me to where the water drops, so off we chased Phnom Kulen waterfalls.
We stayed for an hour, maybe less. On our way back, I was able to enjoy the glorious view from the mountains. It almost looks like what I would imagine Africa would be. It’s brown, vast, and beautiful. It was indeed a wonderful start in Siem Reap. Although this isn’t the most beautiful waterfalls I’ve ever seen, or the most striking temple I’ve visited, it’s humble and simple moments like this that reminds me why I’ve fallen for travel in the first place. It’s the unexpected paths and discoveries that I find myself always hoping for when I’m out and about. And to wrap this up, it’s off the beaten paths like this that I thrive on.
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What a lovely place to spend an entire day in. And a dip in the waterfalls would be the perfect way to end it.
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I’ve visited Siem Reap but has never ventured outside of the Angkor Archaeological Park. The waterfalls look inviting! The place is a good venue to explore the local culture.
-Claire Algarme
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I have been to Siem Reap but not to this place. The water looks refreshing after a walking a lot, even if the place looks a bit eerie. Are they strict with the bathing outfit there? Or could you just swim with a t-shirt and shorts? – Fred
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Phnom Kulen looks like a land lost in time..I can see why you enjoyed getting off the beaten track. Definitely worth a visit in the near future.
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Its my first time knowing Phnom Kulen, the place looks serene and still preserved it nature. I wish to travel more.
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Such an adventure! I couldn’t see myself doing this though because I wouldn’t have enough stamina with all the walking and climbing. I’ve been gaining weight so I guess I’ll pass with this kinds of travel :p
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I know this was not the crux of the article at all, but what on earth do people use goat fat for??!!
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I had no idea Cambodia was so brown. Regardless, the waterfall looks amazing and this sounds like a hike possible by my family including my daughter.
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I have never given Cambodia much thought as a travel destination. If I do make it there Angkor Wat won’t be my priority. Don’t get me wrong, I would visit, but I am sure Cambodia has more to offer like you discovered.
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I agree with you, group tours can be annyoing sometimes, but when you are with the right people it can be a lot of fun! After reading your post, I definitley put Phnom Kulen on my “Things-To-Do-In-Cambodia” list. I like to explore the nature in the countries I’m visiting, and it seems like a good idea to not just spend time in the temples.
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I’d definitely check the temples as well, if I were in your shoes. And I loved the waterfall as well – such parks are not to miss wherever you are!
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Currently in the process of planning a trip to Cambodia for May, 2016. Loved your suggestions and post; a special thanks for the heads up about those fish. I would have been terrified!
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I love reading about off the beaten track places! My husband and I live in Phnom Penh, so we’ll definitely have to check out Phnom Kulen next time we go to Siem Reap. Pinned this post for later!
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Travelling and exploring are the two main objectives of being in control of what you can do with the place. Awesome place to discover with much more interesting to experience.
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I have been to Siam reap three times and I never heard of this spot, will have to check it out next time!
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I spent my afternoon at a local library with my sister yesterday. We were browsing guidebooks to decide where to go next. We have finally decided that we are visiting Cambodia next year so I am glad to read this post and find out about a less visited place!
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Those things sold at the vendore, do look a little disturbing, then again, you would expect them to sell whatever resource they could get their hands on.
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Cambodia is on our list of places to visit! To be honest, I don’t know much more about Cambodia apart from Angkor Wat, so this post was great to see other parts of Cambodia. The waterfalls look like a refreshing break from the walk! And I am so intrigued by the goat fat, tiger teeth and bear claws on sale!
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Cambodia is on our list of places to visit, but to be honest, I don’t know much more about it apart from Angkor Wat. This post is a great insight to what else Cambodia has to offer. Those waterfalls look refreshing! I am so intrigued by the goat fat, tiger teeth and bear claws on sale!
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I can imagine that calm there in Cambodia, I love places like that and Cambodia is on my list. I hope to visit is soon 🙂 And I really liked Phnom Kulen waterfalls.
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